Nishijin made Kyoto rich. For five hundred years this north-west quarter wove the silk brocade — nishijin-ori — that dressed the court and the temples, and the clatter of looms behind the lattice fronts is still, just, part of the soundtrack. This is the craft walk: the textile centre to get your eye in, then the quiet machiya (wooden townhouse) lanes where the trade actually lived.
Start at the Nishijin-ori Kaikan, ignore the kimono show, and find the working looms upstairs. Then walk west into the residential grid — Daikoku-cho and the streets around it, weavers' houses with slatted vents, the occasional real loom audible from a doorway. Bend north to Seimei-jinja, the shrine to the Heian diviner Abe no Seimei, pentagrams and a healing well, best on a quiet weekday.
Cross Horikawa-dori at the Modori-bashi, the willow-lined spine of the district, and find Orinasukan, a weaving museum in an old workshop where the looms still run. End by walking east toward Shokoku-ji, the Zen complex against the palace park, and the subway south.