Shugakuin: the villa and the northern foot
An imperial villa on the hillside, Manshu-in's rock garden, and quiet temple lanes. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Shugakuin Imperial Villa gate
Up the lane from the Eizan stop to the villa's outer gate. Entry is a free timed tour booked ahead through the Imperial Household Agency — turning up cold rarely works, so sort it before you travel. Even the approach, through the villa's own rice fields, is worth the walk.

2. The villa's borrowed-scenery view
If you've got a tour slot, the upper garden's pond gives the most famous example of *shakkei* — 'borrowed scenery' — in Japan: a clipped hedge frames the whole northern valley as if it were the garden. If you haven't, the lane below shares the same view of the mountains for free.

3. Manshu-in
A *-in* (temple) of the same imperial line, a short walk south along the hill — a raked white-gravel rock garden, dark polished verandahs, and almost nobody on them on a weekday. No booking needed here; this is the one to lean on if the villa tour falls through.

4. The hillside temple lanes
Between the temples the lanes run along the foot of the eastern mountains — stone walls, irrigation channels running fast and clear, the odd farm stall with vegetables in an honesty box. Walk them slowly; this is the everyday Kyoto the famous quarters don't show.

5. Enko-ji
A small Zen *-ji* (temple) further down, with a moss garden and a maple slope that turns the whole hillside red in late November — when the queue forms early. Out of season you may have the verandah to yourself. Skip if you're tiring; the lanes alone justify the walk.

6. Ichijoji and the ramen street
Down into *Ichijoji*, the student quarter where Kyoto's serious ramen shops cluster along the main road — queues outside the famous ones by noon and by night. A bowl is the right way to end a hillside afternoon. The Eizan line runs back to town from here.

Shugakuin: the villa and the northern foot