Campo de Ourique: the plateau village and the cypress cemetery
Where tram 28 ends, a quiet grid, a food hall, and Europe's largest mausoleum. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Prazeres
The end of the line. Tram 28 grinds up from the centre and stops here; most of the carriage gets off for the cemetery across the road. Start where the famous tram gives up.

2. Cemitério dos Prazeres
A city of the dead laid out on a grid, cypress avenues running between miniature houses. Walk the main avenue to the Palmela mausoleum — the largest private one in Europe, a stepped pyramid of a thing. From the far wall, the bridge and the river open up below.

3. The grid
Out of the cemetery and into the neighbourhood proper — a calm nineteenth-century grid of low streets, family shops, and old men on benches. Wander; the streets are short and you won't get lost.

4. Igreja de Santo Condestável
The neighbourhood's big modern church, all pale stone and clean lines from the forties. Step in if the door's open; it's a cool, plain box after the cemetery's clutter.

5. Mercado de Campo de Ourique
The reason a lot of people come. A 1930s market hall reworked into a food hall — produce stalls along one side, small kitchens and shared tables down the middle. Go hungry, go early; it fills up by lunch and stays full.

6. Rua Ferreira Borges to Rato
Walk out along the main shopping street and downhill towards Rato and its metro. The descent off the plateau is the gentlest in Lisbon, which after tram 28 you'll appreciate.

Campo de Ourique: the plateau village and the cypress cemetery