Campo Grande: the park and the city museum
A long park with a lake, the city's own history in a tiled palace, and the ceramics museum. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Jardim do Campo Grande (Jardim Dr. Mário Soares)
The long park down the middle of *Campo Grande*, recently renamed for the late president. Enter at the north end and walk its length. Morning is quietest, with the joggers and the dog-walkers and the light through the planes.

2. The lake and the rowing boats
Mid-park there's a lake with a wooden walkway across it and rowing boats for hire. You don't have to row; the walkway over the water is the better photograph and costs nothing.

3. Museu de Lisboa – Palácio Pimenta
The city's own museum, in an eighteenth-century palace on the park's east side. Go for the tiled kitchen — a whole room of blue *azulejos* — and the model of Lisbon before the 1755 earthquake. The garden has peacocks.

4. Museu Bordalo Pinheiro
A few steps on, the museum of Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro — the cartoonist and ceramicist whose cabbage-leaf plates and grinning frogs you'll see in every Lisbon souvenir shop. The originals are sharper and funnier. Small, odd, worth it.

5. The university edge
The park's south end runs up against the *Cidade Universitária* campus. Cut across toward it for the student cafés and the open plazas — a different, younger Lisbon than the one in the palace.

6. Entre Campos metro
Exit the park at the southwest corner and *Entre Campos* is a short walk on. Yellow line back into town, or one stop north returns you to where you started.

Campo Grande: the park and the city museum