Estrela: the great dome and the garden below it
A basilica dome you can climb, a garden with a bandstand, and a poet's grave behind the cypresses. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Basílica da Estrela
The great white dome that anchors this whole side of the city, finished in 1790. Climb it — the roof terrace around the dome gives you Lisbon laid out, and the climb is never busy. The cool marble interior is the reward on the way down.

2. Jardim da Estrela
The garden across the road — a bandstand brought from the old Rossio, a duck pond, vast old trees and a *quiosque* (drinks kiosk) under them. Find a bench near the water; this is the best slow hour on the route.

3. Cemitério dos Ingleses
The walled English cemetery just south, cypresses over old graves — Henry Fielding, who wrote *Tom Jones*, died in Lisbon and lies here. Ring the bell at the gate; the keeper lets you in. Almost nobody does.

4. Assembleia da República view
From the garden's northern edge the great pink-and-white parliament building shows itself across the rooftops below. You don't go in — just take the long view down to it; it's the city's seat of power seen from its quietest park.

5. Rua de São Bento antiques
The descent toward Rato runs past the antique and restoration shops of São Bento — gilt mirrors, chandeliers mid-repair in the windows. Window-shop downhill; the street does the navigating for you.

6. Rato
You land at Rato and the metro. Or carry on five minutes to Príncipe Real if the afternoon's still young; the two hills sit side by side.

Estrela: the great dome and the garden below it