Graça: the high viewpoints, the flea market, the dome
The highest terrace in the city, the Tuesday-and-Saturday flea market, and the white dome that took three centuries. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Miradouro da Senhora do Monte
Start at the top — the highest terrace in Lisbon, and the one to come to first while the light is still low and flat. The whole city and the castle face you across the valley. Fewer people than the famous miradouros; bring a coffee and arrive before the tour buses learn the way up.

2. Miradouro da Graça
Five minutes down, a wider and busier terrace under the pines, the castle dead ahead. A *quiosque* (a garden kiosk-café) sits in the middle of it — the classic *Graça* sit-down. You don't have to stop, but the bench under the trees is one of the city's good ones.

3. São Vicente de Fora
The great white monastery on the way down — go in for the cloisters, lined floor to ceiling with eighteenth-century blue-and-white *azulejo* (painted tile), and the royal pantheon of the Braganças upstairs. The roof terrace, if open, gives you the market and the dome from above.

4. Feira da Ladra
Lisbon's flea market, sprawled across Campo de Santa Clara — but only on Tuesdays and Saturdays, roughly from dawn to mid-afternoon. Tiles, old fado records, junk, the occasional real find. Haggle gently. On other days it's just an empty square, so time this walk for one of those two.

5. Panteão Nacional
The white dome that hangs over this whole side of the city — a church begun in 1681 and not finished until 1966, which is why the Portuguese say of any endless job that it's 'like the works of Santa Engrácia'. Climb to the dome gallery for the river view; the acoustics inside are extraordinary.

6. Santa Apolónia
Down the last slope to the river and the station — blue-line metro, mainline trains east. The walk has been downhill since the first terrace; this is where the hill finally lets you go.

Graça: the high viewpoints, the flea market, the dome