Madragoa & Santos: the quiet quarters
Fishermen's lanes, laundry strung overhead, a puppet museum in a convent, then the river. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Largo de Santos
Step off at *Santos* station and walk up to the *largo* — the square. The morning is the point: the cafés open, the design crowd hasn't surfaced yet, and the lanes uphill are still quiet.

2. Igreja de Santos-o-Velho
The neighbourhood church, plain outside and older than it looks. You don't have to go in; the *largo* in front, with its tiled façades, tells you what kind of quarter this is.

3. Rua das Madres
The heart of *Madragoa* — narrow, tiled, washing strung between the windows. Walk it slowly and look up. This is the fishermen's-quarter Lisbon that the postcards keep promising and rarely deliver.

4. Museu da Marioneta
A puppet museum inside the old *Convento das Bernardas*. Worth the small ticket for the building alone — the cloister is calm and almost always empty. The collection of *marionetas* is stranger and better than you expect.

5. Rua de São João da Mata
Drift downhill through the design district — the showrooms and studios that gave Santos its second life. Browse if a door's open; the point is the gradient pulling you toward the water.

6. Avenida 24 de Julho & the river
The avenue along the *Tejo*. Cross to the river side for the light off the water, then follow it east. Cais do Sodré — train, metro, ferry — is a flat ten minutes on.

Madragoa & Santos: the quiet quarters