Penha de França: the high east
A hilltop church, a terrace nobody photographs, and the quiet way down through Anjos. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Graça (tram 28 stop)
Start where the tourists peel off toward the famous Graça *miradouros* (viewpoints) — and don't follow them. Take coffee, then head east into the streets they never reach. The crowds thin within a block.

2. Igreja da Penha de França
The hilltop church the whole quarter is named for, founded after a sailor's vow at sea. Plain outside, calm inside; it's the high point of the walk in both senses. The terrace beside it does the rest.

3. Miradouro da Penha de França
One of the highest viewpoints in the city and one of the least visited — the river, the castle, the whole western sprawl, and usually no one but a local or two. Bring a coffee; stay longer than you planned.

4. Penha de França backstreets
Wander the residential streets behind the church — tiled house fronts, washing lines, a stair-street dropping suddenly to a view. This is the villagey Lisbon people think they have to leave the centre for.

5. Vale Escuro descent
Start the long drop west toward Anjos — calçada underfoot, the city rising on the far hills as you fall. Take it slowly; the gradient is real and the changing view is the point of going down on foot.

6. Anjos
Land in *Anjos*, busier and more mixed than the hill above — cafés, the church on the square, the metro on the line. A good place to end on flat ground with something cold in hand.

Penha de França: the high east