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Bookshops of Bloomsbury
literaryheritage

Bookshops of Bloomsbury

Five independent bookshops and the ghosts of the writers who browsed them.

Distance

3 km

Time

~ 90 min

Start

Russell Square

End

Tottenham Court Road

Best at

afternoon

Right now
26°C· Clear

12 nearby transit lines disrupted — Waterloo & City, District.

Open in Maps for turn-by-turn, or take it offline as GPX.

This is a walk for a soft grey afternoon. Three kilometres, five bookshops, and enough covered distance that a light drizzle won't put you off. You'll read more book spines than a casual browse requires and come out with at least one thing you didn't expect.

Start at Russell Square. The square itself is worth a lap — Bloomsbury's literary ghosts are thickest here, although you'd never guess it from the benches full of students on their phones. From the south-west corner, cut down Bedford Way towards Tavistock Square and your first stop: Persephone Books.

Persephone is really a publishing house that happens to have a shop. They reprint overlooked 20th-century women writers in matching dove-grey covers, each with a patterned endpaper chosen to match the book's mood. It is, I think, the quietest piece of confident publishing in London. Buy something you've never heard of; it will almost certainly be good.

From there, ten minutes through the Brunswick Centre to Skoob Books, which lives in a basement under the square. Everything's secondhand, the shelves are alarming, and a diligent forty minutes will get you three paperbacks for under a tenner. Skoob is where I go when I need to be reminded that reading is supposed to be cheap and slightly dusty.

You'll emerge blinking and make your way south to the London Review Bookshop on Bury Place. This is the opposite of Skoob: tightly edited, perfectly staffed, with a cafe that does what I consider the best cake in WC1. The front table is a better curator than most magazines.

Keep going south and you'll hit Foyles on Charing Cross Road, which is the loud chapter of this walk. It's a big chain bookshop now, but the building is beautifully done and the children's floor is worth a detour even if you don't have one. Finally, double back north-east to Marchmont Street for Gay's the Word, which has been going since 1979 and still feels, somehow, like a shop where something might happen.

Finish with tea in the Brunswick, or a pint at the Lamb on Lamb's Conduit Street if you've timed it right. You'll leave weighted down with paper and feeling, rightly, like you spent an afternoon well.

The route

On the map.

Elevation

78 m·73 m·2740 m ASL

Stops along the way

Things to notice.

  1. Persephone Books1

    Persephone Books

    A press and shop that reprints forgotten 20th-century women writers, mostly. Every book comes wrapped in the same dove-grey cover with a patterned endpaper chosen to match. It is the most quietly confident shop in London.

  2. Skoob Books2

    Skoob Books

    Basement secondhand stack, the kind where the shelves go higher than is strictly safe. Everything is 50p–£5. Go with an empty tote and an hour to spare and you will find something you didn't know you wanted.

  3. London Review Bookshop3

    London Review Bookshop

    Attached cafe does the best cake in WC1, which on its own would be enough. The fiction selection is opinionated; if a title is on their front table, buy it unread. They're almost always right.

  4. Foyles4

    Foyles

    The Charing Cross flagship is now big-chain bookshop polished, but the top-floor gallery and cafe are the consolation. Go for the architecture and the children's floor, which still feels handmade.

  5. Gay's the Word5

    Gay's the Word

    The oldest LGBTQ+ bookshop in the UK, going since 1979. Small shop, staff who actually know the stock, and a window display that consistently surfaces books you'll kick yourself for having missed.