Soho at two in the morning is a subject that other people have written plenty about. Soho at nine in the morning is a neighbourhood almost nobody looks at, and it's the best time to walk it. Two and a half kilometres, a handful of pubs still sleeping it off, a cafe or two opening.
Start at Oxford Circus and walk south into Berwick Street, which was the record-shop street and now mostly isn't. The signs are still there though; so are Sister Ray and a stalwart or two. A slow walk lets you actually see the Georgian proportions under the neon.
Double back to Bar Italia for the most honest shot of coffee in central London. Don't sit. Across to Soho Square, which opens at seven-thirty and at nine is already doing its weekday thing.
Then Dean Street, Old Compton — the famous stretches, quiet for once — and finish at the Chinatown gate. Leicester Square is a minute away and Pret is opening.
