La Latina: the Rastro and Cava Baja

Stops along the way

Things to notice.

1. 01

   1

   Plaza de Cascorro

   The top of the *Rastro*, marked by the statue of Eloy Gonzalo, the soldier of Cascorro. On a Sunday morning the stalls start here and pour downhill. Come before eleven if you want room to move; arrive at one and you'll be shuffling shoulder to shoulder.

   01

   Plaza de Cascorro

   The top of the *Rastro*, marked by the statue of Eloy Gonzalo, the soldier of Cascorro. On a Sunday morning the stalls start here and pour downhill. Come before eleven if you want room to move; arrive at one and you'll be shuffling shoulder to shoulder.

   ◉Street View
2. 02

   2

   Ribera de Curtidores

   The market's spine — the old tanners' slope, now hundreds of stalls of clothes, prints, junk and the occasional real find. Haggling is expected on the bric-a-brac, less so on the fixed shops. Work your way down, then duck into the side courtyards off the bottom for the antique dealers.

   02

   Ribera de Curtidores

   The market's spine — the old tanners' slope, now hundreds of stalls of clothes, prints, junk and the occasional real find. Haggling is expected on the bric-a-brac, less so on the fixed shops. Work your way down, then duck into the side courtyards off the bottom for the antique dealers.

   ◉Street View
3. 03

   3

   Iglesia de San Andrés

   Climb west out of the market to the brick dome of San Andrés, where Madrid's patron saint Isidore was first buried. The square in front empties out the moment you leave the Rastro behind — a good place to catch your breath.

   03

   Iglesia de San Andrés

   Climb west out of the market to the brick dome of San Andrés, where Madrid's patron saint Isidore was first buried. The square in front empties out the moment you leave the Rastro behind — a good place to catch your breath.

   ◉Street View
4. 04

   4

   Plaza de la Paja

   The medieval market square, the heart of old Madrid before *Plaza Mayor* existed — sloping, tree-shaded, ringed by the Capilla del Obispo and a few quiet *terrazas*. Sit for ten minutes. This is the prettiest pause on the walk and almost nobody on the Rastro climbs up to find it.

   04

   Plaza de la Paja

   The medieval market square, the heart of old Madrid before *Plaza Mayor* existed — sloping, tree-shaded, ringed by the Capilla del Obispo and a few quiet *terrazas*. Sit for ten minutes. This is the prettiest pause on the walk and almost nobody on the Rastro climbs up to find it.

   ◉Street View
5. 05

   5

   Cava Baja

   The tapas street, curving down from Plaza de la Paja — one bar after another in old coaching-inn buildings. By early afternoon the *cañas* (small beers) are flowing along the whole length. Pick whichever bar is busiest with locals, order one plate, then move to the next; that's how the street is meant to be walked.

   05

   Cava Baja

   The tapas street, curving down from Plaza de la Paja — one bar after another in old coaching-inn buildings. By early afternoon the *cañas* (small beers) are flowing along the whole length. Pick whichever bar is busiest with locals, order one plate, then move to the next; that's how the street is meant to be walked.

   ◉Street View
6. 06

   6

   Plaza de la Cebada

   End at the old barley-market square, with the 1875 iron market hall on one side. From here it's a two-minute walk to the La Latina Metro. A good last look back at the neighbourhood before the line home.

   06

   Plaza de la Cebada

   End at the old barley-market square, with the 1875 iron market hall on one side. From here it's a two-minute walk to the La Latina Metro. A good last look back at the neighbourhood before the line home.

   ◉Street View