La Latina: the Rastro and Cava Baja
Sunday's great flea market, the tapas street, and the oldest square in Madrid. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Plaza de Cascorro
The top of the *Rastro*, marked by the statue of Eloy Gonzalo, the soldier of Cascorro. On a Sunday morning the stalls start here and pour downhill. Come before eleven if you want room to move; arrive at one and you'll be shuffling shoulder to shoulder.

2. Ribera de Curtidores
The market's spine — the old tanners' slope, now hundreds of stalls of clothes, prints, junk and the occasional real find. Haggling is expected on the bric-a-brac, less so on the fixed shops. Work your way down, then duck into the side courtyards off the bottom for the antique dealers.

3. Iglesia de San Andrés
Climb west out of the market to the brick dome of San Andrés, where Madrid's patron saint Isidore was first buried. The square in front empties out the moment you leave the Rastro behind — a good place to catch your breath.

4. Plaza de la Paja
The medieval market square, the heart of old Madrid before *Plaza Mayor* existed — sloping, tree-shaded, ringed by the Capilla del Obispo and a few quiet *terrazas*. Sit for ten minutes. This is the prettiest pause on the walk and almost nobody on the Rastro climbs up to find it.

5. Cava Baja
The tapas street, curving down from Plaza de la Paja — one bar after another in old coaching-inn buildings. By early afternoon the *cañas* (small beers) are flowing along the whole length. Pick whichever bar is busiest with locals, order one plate, then move to the next; that's how the street is meant to be walked.

6. Plaza de la Cebada
End at the old barley-market square, with the 1875 iron market hall on one side. From here it's a two-minute walk to the La Latina Metro. A good last look back at the neighbourhood before the line home.

La Latina: the Rastro and Cava Baja