Little Italy: the Jean-Talon market and the Italian blocks
One of North America's great markets, the cafés of the Italian quarter, and the church on Dante. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Marché Jean-Talon
Start in one of the great open markets of North America, running since 1933 — Québec produce stacked under the long sheds, cheese rooms, a maple stall, the cider counters. Come Saturday morning when the farmers are in and the aisles are full. Go hungry, leave heavy.

2. Boulevard Saint-Laurent (the Italian stretch)
Out the south end onto the Main, where Little Italy keeps its cafés and salumerie. The espresso here is taken standing and seriously; pick a counter and join the regulars. This is the spine of the quarter, not a theme of one.

3. Église Madonna della Difesa
The 1919 Italian church a block east, famous for Guido Nincheri's frescoes — including the one with Mussolini on horseback, painted before the war and never painted over. Step in for the ceiling; it's the most loaded artwork in the city. Open outside Mass hours.

4. Parc Dante (Parco Dante)
The small Italian square beside the church, with its bocce courts and old men playing them most fine afternoons. A bench-and-gelato pause. The neighbourhood's living room, more than any café.

5. Caffè Italia / the Saint-Laurent counters
Back on the Main, the standing espresso bars that have poured for the quarter for decades. You don't need to sit; an espresso at the counter and a word with whoever's beside you is the whole ritual. Then drift north.

6. Rue de Castelnau and the metro
End on the quieter cross-street by the station — the edge where Little Italy shades into Villeray, low-key and local. De Castelnau on the Blue Line takes you home, market bags and all.

Little Italy: the Jean-Talon market and the Italian blocks