This is the city after dark: a district built for festivals, a national library you can walk straight into, and the café spine of the Quartier Latin running uphill behind it. Three kilometres, best in the evening, when the squares light up and the terrasses fill.
Start on the esplanade of Place des Arts — the jazz festival's stage in summer, lively most nights — and cross into Place des Festivals, where the programmable fountains run and the Luminothérapie installations glow through the winter. Walk east along Sainte-Catherine toward the Quartier Latin, pedestrianised and strung with lights in the warm months.
The Grande Bibliothèque is the surprise: Quebec's national library, a calm wood box at Berri-UQAM that anyone can walk into and sit in. Then up Rue Saint-Denis, the student spine of terrasses and bookshops, where you stop to eat. End a few blocks up at Carré Saint-Louis, the leafy square of painted Victorian rowhouses, before dropping back to Berri-UQAM.