Vieux-Montréal: the cobbled old town
Notre-Dame, the square in front of the city hall, and the old bank canyon of Rue Saint-Jacques. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Place d'Armes
Start in the square with the Maisonneuve monument at its centre and the city's history stacked around the edges — the basilica on one side, the red sandstone of the New York Life Building on another. Stand a moment and read the rooflines before you go anywhere.

2. Notre-Dame Basilica
Go in. The blue vaulted ceiling pricked with gold stars is the thing people come for, and it earns it. Buy the ticket at the side; go early before the tour groups land. The deep-blue light off the sanctuary is the reason to come at opening.

3. Place Jacques-Cartier
The sloping cobbled square running down toward the river, lined with terrasses (open-air café seating) in summer. The Nelson Column stands at the top. Walk down the middle; it's touristy and worth it anyway, especially with a coffee before the crowds.

4. Hôtel de Ville
The city hall opposite the square, all Second-Empire turrets and a balcony — the one de Gaulle shouted 'Vive le Québec libre' from in 1967. Look up at the green copper roof; the building reads best from the corner of Rue Notre-Dame.

5. Rue Saint-Paul
Double back to the oldest street in the city, narrow and stone-fronted, running west. Slower and quieter than the squares. Walk it toward Marché Bonsecours and let the silver dome pull you along.

6. Rue Saint-Jacques
End on the old banking street — the canyon of columned facades that was the financial centre of Canada before Toronto took it. The former Bank of Montreal head office faces Place d'Armes; step inside the banking hall if the doors are open. Champ-de-Mars is a few minutes east.

Vieux-Montréal: the cobbled old town