Every Parisian has a corner of the Luxembourg they think of as theirs, and the surest way to find yours is to come in from the Odéon and let the park unfold uphill. This is a walk of two halves: the theatre quarter, then the garden it leans against.
Start at the Carrefour de l'Odéon, Danton on his plinth and a café on every corner. Climb to the Théâtre de l'Odéon, a neoclassical block at the head of its own square — stand in the empty place and look back down toward the river. Then through the gates into the jardin.
The palace is the Senate, shut to you, but the terrace in front is the best free seat in the 6th. Drop to the Grand Bassin for the toy sailboats and the green chairs you can drag into the sun — this is where the afternoon earns its keep. Find the Fontaine Médicis in its shaded corner, quieter than the pond beside it. Leave by the north-west gate to Saint-Sulpice, the Delacroix murals, and the fountain. The RER is a two-minute walk back east.

