Montorgueil and Les Halles
The old market street, a pâtisserie from 1730, and modern art under a dome. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Rue Montorgueil
Start at the top and walk down the pedestrian length — one of the oldest market streets in the city, still working as one. *Fromageries*, *poissonniers*, café tables out across the cobbles. Mornings are when the produce is freshest and the street is doing its actual job.

2. Stohrer
The *pâtisserie* at number 51, opened 1730 and the oldest in Paris. Go in for the painted ceiling as much as the pastries; the *baba au rhum* was reputedly invented here. Buy one thing and eat it on the move.

3. Église Saint-Eustache
The vast church at the foot of the street, Gothic bones in Renaissance dress, with one of the biggest organs in France. Slip in for the scale and the light; recitals happen here, often free, usually Sunday afternoons.

4. Bourse de Commerce — Pinault Collection
The old circular grain exchange, reopened in 2021 as a contemporary-art museum under its glass dome, with a concrete cylinder dropped inside by Tadao Ando. Worth the ticket for the building alone; the art rotates. Shut Tuesdays.

5. La Canopée des Halles
The undulating glass-and-steel roof of 2016 over the rebuilt Forum des Halles, where the great wholesale market stood until 1971. Walk under the curve and out into the sunken garden; opinions on it divide, which is half the interest.

6. Rue Tiquetonne
Loop back up this narrow old lane for the quieter end of the quarter — small *bistrots*, a vintage shop or two, less foot traffic than Montorgueil one street over. A calm finish before the Métro at Châtelet.

Montorgueil and Les Halles