Passy is a village that the 16th built around without quite swallowing, and this afternoon walk takes its two best stories in turn: Balzac hiding from his debts, and Hector Guimard inventing French Art Nouveau a few streets away.
Start in the Jardins du Ranelagh — chestnut avenues, an old puppet theatre, and the Musée Marmottan Monet nearby for anyone who wants the Monets. Then down rue La Fontaine, Guimard's own street, looking up the whole way. The Castel Béranger at number 14 is the building that made him: the green iron gate is one of the loveliest things in Paris and almost nobody stops for it.
Climb back to the Maison de Balzac, the writer's bolt-hole on the Passy slope. The house is free and the garden, small and green over the rooftops, is the quiet heart of the walk. Sit a while.
Finish down rue de l'Annonciation, the old market street, to Passy station — an open-air stop where the Eiffel Tower slides into view as your train arrives.
