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Passy: Balzac's house and Guimard's curves
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Passy: Balzac's house and Guimard's curves

A village within the 16th, Balzac's free house and garden, and Hector Guimard's Art Nouveau facades.

Photo: Fred Romero / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

Drafted by Claude — the editor hasn’t walked this one yet. We’ll update this notice once it’s been verified on the ground.

Distance

3.2 km

Time

~ 75 min

Difficulty

Easy

End

Passy (M6)

Best at

afternoon

Right now
35°C· Clear

Open in Maps for turn-by-turn, or take it offline as GPX.

Passy is a village that the 16th built around without quite swallowing, and this afternoon walk takes its two best stories in turn: Balzac hiding from his debts, and Hector Guimard inventing French Art Nouveau a few streets away.

Start in the Jardins du Ranelagh — chestnut avenues, an old puppet theatre, and the Musée Marmottan Monet nearby for anyone who wants the Monets. Then down rue La Fontaine, Guimard's own street, looking up the whole way. The Castel Béranger at number 14 is the building that made him: the green iron gate is one of the loveliest things in Paris and almost nobody stops for it.

Climb back to the Maison de Balzac, the writer's bolt-hole on the Passy slope. The house is free and the garden, small and green over the rooftops, is the quiet heart of the walk. Sit a while.

Finish down rue de l'Annonciation, the old market street, to Passy station — an open-air stop where the Eiffel Tower slides into view as your train arrives.

The route

On the map.

Elevation

97 m·102 m·4271 m ASL

Stops along the way

Things to notice.

  1. 01
    1

    Jardins du Ranelagh

    Start in the shade of the Ranelagh gardens — chestnut avenues, a marionette theatre that's been running since the 1880s, children and dogs. The *Musée Marmottan Monet*, with the largest Monet collection anywhere, sits a few minutes north if you want to make a half-day of it.

  2. 02
    2

    Rue La Fontaine — Hector Guimard's street

    The street where Guimard concentrated his Art Nouveau output. Numbers along it — the *Hôtel Mezzara* among them — carry his iron, glass and stone in full flow. Walk it looking up; the detail is all above the shopfronts.

  3. 03
    3

    Castel Béranger

    Guimard's breakthrough block of flats, 1898, at 14 rue La Fontaine — the green iron gate alone is worth the trip. It's lived-in, so admire the facade and the entrance and don't try the door. This is the building that made his name.

  4. 04
    4

    Maison de Balzac

    The writer's house on the slope of Passy, where he wrote and hid from creditors. The museum is free, the garden is small and green and looks out over the rooftops toward the river. Sit in it; this is the calm middle of the walk.

  5. 05
    5

    Rue de l'Annonciation

    The market street of old Passy village — bakers, cheesemongers, a fishmonger, the rhythm of a neighbourhood that shops on foot. Pedestrianised and gently downhill. Pick up something for later.

  6. 06
    6

    Rue de Passy & Passy station

    The high street proper, busier, then the Métro at Passy on its viaduct — one of the open-air stations, with a view to the Eiffel Tower as the train pulls in. A fitting last image for a 16th walk.