The New Town's solemn heart, walked in a morning. Karlovo náměstí is one of the largest squares in the world and now mostly a calm park, but the streets around it hold two of the hardest stories in the city: a medieval revolt and a wartime last stand.
Start with a loop of the náměstí under the plane trees. At the north end is the New Town Hall, where in 1419 a Hussite crowd threw the councillors from the windows — the first Prague defenestration, and the war it began. South, the red Faust House trails its alchemy legend.
The centre of the walk is on Resslova. The Orthodox Church of SS Cyril and Methodius hid the parachutists who assassinated Heydrich in 1942; cornered in the crypt, they died here. The National Memorial below is quiet and exact, the bullet scars by the street-level window left as they were. It's open every day but Monday. Walk it slowly.
Then Emmaus, the 1347 abbey whose bombed towers were rebuilt in 1945 as two soaring concrete spires — a scar turned into something beautiful. Back across the square to the metro, and somewhere quiet after.
