Hradčany is the castle district minus the castle queue — the streets above and behind the cathedral where the palaces are residential, the lanes are empty, and the views come free. Do it downhill, top to bottom, and it's all gain.
Take the 22 to Pohořelec and start at the Strahovský klášter, whose two library halls — Theological and Philosophical — are baroque rooms so complete you view them from the threshold. There's a monastery brewery in the yard. Behind it, an orchard hillside gives you the city laid out with almost no one watching.
Wind down into Nový Svět, the cobbled 'New World' lane where Brahe and Kepler once lodged, then the Loreta — wait in the square for its carillon to chime the hour. Finish at Hradčanské náměstí, palaces on every side and the rooftops dropping away at the rail. From here you're at the castle gate, or back on the 22.
