Karlín is the district that drowned and came back. The 2002 flood put these streets under metres of the Vltava; what stands now is largely the rebuild, which is why Karlín reads younger and cleaner than its nineteenth-century bones suggest. This walk takes the riverside, the churches, and the great railway arches that survived it all.
Three kilometres, flat, best on a weekday afternoon when the studios are working and the streets are calm. Start at Florenc (metro B/C) and walk east into the grid to Karlínské náměstí, where the neo-Romanesque Church of SS Cyril and Methodius rises over the square — striped, twin-towered, much larger than the space around it expects.
East again to Lyčkovo náměstí, the quieter square with its ornate school, then north to Kaizlovy sady and the embankment, where the river opens the sky up after all that grid.
The finish is the Negrelli Viaduct — over a hundred stone arches from the 1840s, restored, the spaces beneath them now cafés and workshops. Walk under it, arch by arch, then back to Křižíkova. A coffee in one of the arches is the proper end.
