Malá Strana is the baroque quarter that sits in the lap of the castle hill, and the trick to it is to ignore the through-traffic to the bridge and walk the side streets instead. The whole thing is built around one square and one dome.
Start from Malostranská and come up to Malostranské náměstí, where the green dome of Kostel sv. Mikuláše sits in the middle of everything. Go inside — the ceiling is the reason. Then take Nerudova uphill, not to the castle today but for the house signs: the Three Fiddles, the Golden Key, the painted addresses from before doors had numbers. You don't have to walk the whole climb; turn back when the gradient stops being charming.
Drop down to the Lennon Wall, repainted weekly since the eighties, then the walled quiet of Vojanovy sady with its peacocks — the garden everyone walks past. End on Kampa, the island under the bridge where the old mill wheel still turns on the Čertovka. Trams from Újezd take you on.
