The castle is less a building than a walled town — a cathedral, two palaces, a basilica and a lane of cottages inside one set of gates, billed as the largest castle complex in the world. The only mistake is treating it as a single ticket and a single hour.
Come up on the 22 tram and start at the gate, where the guards change on the hour. Walk through the courtyards until Katedrála sv. Víta ambushes you — there's nowhere to stand back from it, and that's the effect. Inside, the Mucha window glows in the north aisle and the St Wenceslas chapel is walled in jasper and amethyst.
Then the Starý královský palác for the vast Vladislav Hall and the defenestration window, the Romanesque calm of Bazilika sv. Jiří, and Zlatá ulička, where Kafka borrowed a brother's cottage one winter. Leave down the Old Castle Steps with the whole city laid below you, straight onto the metro at Malostranská.

