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Prague Castle: the cathedral and the Golden Lane
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Prague Castle: the cathedral and the Golden Lane

St Vitus, the Old Royal Palace, the tiny houses of the Golden Lane, and the long view down.

Photo: MathKnight and Zachi Evenor / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.5

Drafted by Claude — the editor hasn’t walked this one yet. We’ll update this notice once it’s been verified on the ground.

Distance

3 km

Time

~ 100 min

Difficulty

Strenuous

End

Malostranská (metro A)

Best at

morning

Right now
26°C· Partly cloudy

Open in Maps for turn-by-turn, or take it offline as GPX.

The castle is less a building than a walled town — a cathedral, two palaces, a basilica and a lane of cottages inside one set of gates, billed as the largest castle complex in the world. The only mistake is treating it as a single ticket and a single hour.

Come up on the 22 tram and start at the gate, where the guards change on the hour. Walk through the courtyards until Katedrála sv. Víta ambushes you — there's nowhere to stand back from it, and that's the effect. Inside, the Mucha window glows in the north aisle and the St Wenceslas chapel is walled in jasper and amethyst.

Then the Starý královský palác for the vast Vladislav Hall and the defenestration window, the Romanesque calm of Bazilika sv. Jiří, and Zlatá ulička, where Kafka borrowed a brother's cottage one winter. Leave down the Old Castle Steps with the whole city laid below you, straight onto the metro at Malostranská.

The route

On the map.

Elevation

329 m·360 m·192284 m ASL

Stops along the way

Things to notice.

  1. 01
    1

    First Courtyard & the gate

    Come in past the wrestling-giant statues on the gate and the guards beneath them. The changing of the guard is on the hour; the full ceremony with the band is at noon. Go early if you want the courtyards before the crowd; the queue for security is real by mid-morning.

  2. 02
    2

    Katedrála sv. Víta (St Vitus Cathedral)

    You round a corner and the whole west front is suddenly on top of you — there's no room to step back, which is the drama. Inside, find the Mucha window in the north aisle and the St Wenceslas chapel, walled in semi-precious stone. The nave is free; the far end and the crypt need the ticket.

  3. 03
    3

    Starý královský palác (Old Royal Palace)

    The Vladislav Hall is the great surprise — a late-Gothic vault so wide they once held jousting tournaments indoors, riders coming up the Rider's Staircase. Out the far door is the window the 1618 defenestration was thrown from. History, and a balcony view.

  4. 04
    4

    Bazilika sv. Jiří (St George's Basilica)

    The red baroque front hides the oldest thing on the hill — a Romanesque church from the 900s, all bare stone and round arches once you're inside. After the cathedral's height it feels like stepping back six hundred years, which it is.

  5. 05
    5

    Zlatá ulička (the Golden Lane)

    A row of toy-sized cottages built into the castle wall, once home to guards and goldsmiths. Kafka wrote in number 22 for a winter. It's ticketed by day and free in the evening once the houses shut — quieter then, if you don't mind looking and not entering.

  6. 06
    6

    Old Castle Steps (Staré zámecké schody)

    Leave by the eastern gate and take the old stairs down — the city opens out in front of you the whole way, red roofs and spires stacked to the river. The steps land you at *Malostranská* metro. Knees permitting, this is the only way to go down.