Vinohrady: Riegrovy sady and the café streets
The sunset view across to the castle, Plečnik's brick church, and the streets between them. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad
Start at the square named for the Hussite king. Metro A puts you under it; come up and the brick church is right there. The farmers' market fills the square on Wednesdays through Saturdays — if you've timed it, buy something to carry up to the park.

2. Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord
Jože Plečnik's 1932 church, and unlike anything else in Prague — a long flat brick wall, a vast glazed clock set into the tower like a rose window reinvented. Walk around it slowly. It rewards the full circuit more than the interior does.

3. The café streets
Drift west and north through the streets between the square and the park. This is the café quarter — independent roasters, wine bars, bakeries on the corners. Don't plan the route; the point is to wander down whichever street looks best and end up at the park's edge.

4. Riegrovy sady
The hillside park. Walk in from the east side and let the lawns pull you towards the western slope. The beer garden under the trees is the social heart of Vinohrady in warm weather; it's loud, cheap, and entirely the point.

5. The sunset slope
The west-facing meadow at the top of the park is the postcard: the whole city laid out, the castle on the far ridge, the spires in between. People come up with bottles and wait for the light. Come in the evening or don't come for this at all.

6. Down to Náměstí Míru
Leave the park's south-west corner and the streets carry you down to *Náměstí Míru* — the church of St Ludmila, the metro back, or the walk down to Muzeum if you'd rather keep moving. A good place to stop walking and start eating.

Vinohrady: Riegrovy sady and the café streets