Smíchov is the working-class river quarter that industry built and money is busy rewriting — but the older layer is still there if you walk past the glass. Three kilometres on the flat, anchored by a brewery, a villa, and the Vltava.
Start at Anděl, the metro B crossroads, and step off it quickly into the streets behind, where the Pivovar Staropramen has brewed pivo (beer) since 1869. From there it's a short walk west to Bertramka, the villa where Mozart stayed with the Dušeks and, the story goes, finished Don Giovanni the night before the Prague premiere. Sit in the garden; the small museum keeps the rest. Loop back past Portheimka, a 1720s baroque summer palace stranded in a pocket park, then drop down to the river.
The náplavka (riverside quay) on the Smíchov side is the quieter bank — sit a while. End across the footbridge on Dětský ostrov, a small island in the Vltava, then walk the ten minutes back to Anděl for the metro home.
