Smíchov: Anděl, the brewery, and the villa where Don Giovanni was finished
The brewery quarter, the garden where Mozart worked, and a quiet island on the Vltava. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Anděl
The metro B crossroads and the whole quarter's hinge. Get your bearings here, then walk away from the glass and into the older streets behind — Smíchov is grittier and better the moment you leave the junction.

2. Pivovar Staropramen
*Smíchov* has brewed *pivo* (beer) here since 1869, and the brewery still runs. You don't have to take the tour; the point is that the quarter smells faintly of malt and has done for a century and a half.

3. Bertramka
The villa where Mozart stayed with the Dušeks and, by the well-worn story, finished *Don Giovanni* the night before its Prague premiere in 1787. The garden is the reason to come; the small museum inside fills the rest.

4. Portheimka
A baroque summer palace from the 1720s, marooned now in a small park behind the church. Walk through when the garden's open — it's the kind of quiet that *Smíchov*'s main streets don't offer.

5. Smíchovská náplavka
The *náplavka* (riverside quay) runs along the Vltava below the embankment road. Less crowded than the Rašín bank opposite; a good place to sit with the water moving and the castle out of sight for once.

6. Dětský ostrov
A small island reached by a footbridge — playgrounds at one end, a quiet riverside path at the other. End here, then double back to Anděl, ten minutes on foot.

Smíchov: Anděl, the brewery, and the villa where Don Giovanni was finished