This is the river's modern edge — the one stretch of central Prague that isn't medieval. Three kilometres down the Vltava's right bank, from Gehry's twirling building to the cliff of Vyšehrad, with the best of the city's drinking happening in cellars cut into the embankment wall.
Start at the Dancing House — Tančící dům, 1996, Frank Gehry with the Czech architect Vlado Milunić, glass and concrete caught mid-step. Photograph it from the Resslova corner, then head south along Rašínovo nábřeží and drop down the stairs to the water.
The náplavka (the quay) is the point. Old ice-cellars with round porthole windows line the embankment, every one now a bar or a gallery, and on Saturday the whole run becomes a farmers' market — go hungry, on a Saturday, if you can. Past Palackého náměstí, where a thunderous art-nouveau monument to the historian Palacký lifts off the embankment, the river bends.
Then the rock. Vyšehrad rises ahead with its twin spires, and the walk ends at Výtoň under the railway bridge — the tram, or the climb up, another day.


