Olšany: the city of the dead and Kafka's grave
The largest cemetery in Prague, its tree-lined avenues, and a quiet grave in the one next door. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Olšany Cemeteries — main gate
Enter from the Vinohradská side, near *Flora*. The *hřbitov* (cemetery) covers more than 50 hectares — the largest in the country. Take a paper map at the gate if one's offered; the avenues all look alike.

2. The main avenue
Walk the long central allée slowly. The trees are the point as much as the tombs — limes and maples that turn in autumn and keep the noise of the city out entirely.

3. The elaborate tombs
The 19th-century family monuments — sculpted angels, neoclassical chapels, cast-iron railings gone soft with rust. Among the most ornate funerary art in Prague. Wander; there's no wrong direction.

4. The war graves
Sections hold Commonwealth and Red Army graves from the two wars, kept in plain ranks. A quieter, more sober corner than the family plots. Worth the few minutes.

5. New Jewish Cemetery — entrance
Cross to the *Nový židovský hřbitov* by *Želivského*. Men are asked to cover their heads; *kippot* are usually available at the gate. Opened 1890, and still in use.

6. Franz Kafka's grave
A plain pale obelisk near the cemetery's main path, shared with his parents. People leave small stones, in the Jewish custom, rather than flowers. Stand a moment, then leave it as you found it.

Olšany: the city of the dead and Kafka's grave