The Vltava islands and the National Theatre
The gold-roofed theatre, the Café Slavia, and two green islands with the castle laid out across the water. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. National Theatre (Národní divadlo)
The gold-roofed *Národní divadlo* on the embankment — the building the nation paid for twice, after a fire gutted the first one weeks from opening in 1881. Stand back across *Národní* to take in the roof; the gold lettering above the stage reads *Národ sobě*, the nation to itself.

2. Café Slavia
Opposite the theatre, the *Café Slavia* — the writers' and dissidents' café, Havel's among them, with the river and the castle through the windows. Take a window table, order coffee, and don't rush. This is the one stop where sitting still is the activity.

3. Slovanský ostrov (Žofín)
Down onto *Slovanský ostrov* — the *ostrov* (island) Praguers call *Žofín*, after the neo-Renaissance palace where Liszt and Wagner once played. A small park, a duck-filled side channel, a hired rowing boat if the mood takes you.

4. Mánes gallery & the weir
At the island's north end, the *Mánes* — a 1930s functionalist gallery straddling the river beside an old water tower, glass and white concrete over the weir. Worth a look in for whatever's hanging; the building is the better exhibit.

5. Střelecký ostrov
Cross under the *Legion Bridge* onto *Střelecký ostrov*, the island in the river's middle. Walk to the downstream tip: the National Theatre on one bank, the castle above the other, the weir foaming between. The best free view in this stretch of the city.

6. Újezd & the bridge back
Off the island's far end and you're in *Malá Strana* at *Újezd* — trams in every direction, the funicular up *Petřín* if you've energy left, or the walk back over the *Legion Bridge* for the theatre lit up at dusk.

The Vltava islands and the National Theatre