Vinohrady — the name means "vineyards" — is the elegant residential east of Prague, a district laid out in the late nineteenth century around one square and one church, then filled with the tall apartment blocks the new middle class wanted to live in. This walk runs from that square down to the one thing the name promised: a vineyard, still working, on a hillside park.
Three kilometres, mostly downhill. Start at Náměstí Míru (metro A), the náměstí the whole district radiates from, with the neo-Gothic Church of St Ludmila at its head and the Vinohrady Theatre just off to the side. Take in the square, then walk east and south through the grand streets — Korunní, Slezská, whichever side lane pulls you — past the cafés and the sculpted doorways.
The streets tip you down into Havlíčkovy sady, the park everyone calls the Grébovka. The neo-Renaissance villa sits above a working vineyard, the oldest in the city still producing; the pavilion above the vines pours its own wine when it's open. Below it, an artificial grotto of tufa and fake stalactites, built for the villa's owner and entirely worth the look. Climb back up to the Jana Masaryka tram.
