Vinohrady: Náměstí Míru to the Grébovka vineyard
The neo-Gothic church, the grand café streets, and a working vineyard with a grotto below it. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Náměstí Míru
Start here, at the *náměstí* (the square) that Vinohrady was built around. The metro A line drops you at the foot of the church; the tram lines fan out from the top. Get a coffee before you climb the church steps — the whole district radiates from this point.

2. Church of St Ludmila
The twin-spired neo-Gothic church on the square, 1890s, the visual anchor of the whole neighbourhood. You don't need to go in; the point is to stand below it and see how the apartment blocks were laid out to frame it.

3. Vinohrady Theatre
Just off the square's north side, the grand Art Nouveau playhouse from 1907. Worth the thirty-second detour for the facade alone — the two winged figures over the front are the kind of thing you walk past in Vinohrady and stop noticing too quickly.

4. The Vinohrady apartment streets
Walk east and south through the grid — Korunní, Slezská, the side streets off them. This is the elegant residential core: tall fin-de-siècle blocks, cafés on the ground floors, the occasional sculpted doorway. Pick a street and let it lead you downhill.

5. Havlíčkovy sady (Grébovka)
The landscaped park drops away below Vinohrady towards Vršovice. Find the neo-Renaissance villa and the pavilion above the vines; the working vineyard on the slope is the oldest in Prague still producing. Sit on the terrace above it if the wine pavilion is open.

6. The grotto
Below the vineyard, an artificial cave of tufa and stalactites built for the villa's owner in the 1880s — restored, slightly absurd, and almost always quieter than it should be. End here, then climb back up to the Jana Masaryka tram.

Vinohrady: Náměstí Míru to the Grébovka vineyard