Žižkov is the contrary district — the one that sits just over the hill from genteel Vinohrady and has spent a century refusing to behave like it. This walk takes the two things it's known for and puts them in order: the tower nobody asked for, and the pubs everybody stayed for.
Three kilometres, with a hill. Start under the Žižkov Television Tower, 216 metres of communist-era steel that the city tolerated until David Černý bolted ten giant bronze babies to it — faceless, barcoded, crawling up the columns. Go up for the view or just stand beneath it. Then north to the neo-Gothic Church of St Procopius, the landmark Žižkov had first.
After that, the pubs. Žižkov claims the highest density of them in the country, and walking the grid between the tower and Husinecká you'll believe it — the trick is to pick a hospoda (a pub) with a Pilsner Urquell sign and a crowd that's been coming for decades.
Climb Parukářka for the wide view, wander the small squares, and end downhill at Husinecká or Hlavní nádraží. One last pub on the way is, locally, non-negotiable.
