Žižkov: the tower, the babies, and the pubs
Černý's crawling babies on a space-age tower, then the densest grid of pubs in the city. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Žižkov Television Tower
Start at the tower — 216 metres of grey steel that Žižkov has never agreed to love. Look up: David Černý's giant bronze babies crawl up the columns, faceless and barcoded. Go up the observation deck for the view, or just stand underneath and decide how you feel about it.

2. Church of St Procopius
A few minutes north, the neo-Gothic parish church on Sladkovského náměstí — the proper landmark Žižkov had before the tower arrived. Pleasant square, benches, the kind of place to sit for ten minutes before the pubs begin.

3. The pub grid
Žižkov has, by repute, the most pubs per square kilometre in the country, and you don't have to take that on faith — just walk the streets between the tower and Husinecká and count the *hospody* (the pubs). Pick one with a Pilsner Urquell sign and nobody under fifty inside. That's the one.

4. Parukářka
The hill park on the eastern edge, with one of the better tower views and a scruffy summit bar that opens in season. Climb it for the panorama back over the rooftops; the tower from up here makes more sense than it does from below.

5. The Žižkov squares
Drop back west through the small squares — Škroupovo náměstí and the streets around it, low nineteenth-century blocks, less polished than Vinohrady over the hill and proud of it. This is the district at street level: working, contrary, unbothered.

6. Down to Husinecká / Hlavní nádraží
Carry on downhill to the Husinecká tram, or keep going to *Hlavní nádraží* (metro C) for the train station and the line out. A last pub on the way down is traditional and, in Žižkov, almost compulsory.

Žižkov: the tower, the babies, and the pubs