Centro Storico: the Pantheon and Piazza Navona

Stops along the way

Things to notice.

1. 01

   1

   Piazza della Rotonda

   Come early, before the square fills. The Pantheon's portico faces you across the *piazza* and the *Fontana del Pantheon* in front of it — sit on the fountain step with a coffee and look up at the pediment for a while before going in.

   01

   Piazza della Rotonda

   Come early, before the square fills. The Pantheon's portico faces you across the *piazza* and the *Fontana del Pantheon* in front of it — sit on the fountain step with a coffee and look up at the pediment for a while before going in.

   ◉Street View
2. 02

   2

   The Pantheon

   Walk in and stand directly under the *oculus* — the open eye in the dome, nearly two thousand years old and still the largest unreinforced concrete dome on earth. Entry is ticketed now; go at opening to have the floor to yourself. Raphael is buried in the wall to your left.

   02

   The Pantheon

   Walk in and stand directly under the *oculus* — the open eye in the dome, nearly two thousand years old and still the largest unreinforced concrete dome on earth. Entry is ticketed now; go at opening to have the floor to yourself. Raphael is buried in the wall to your left.

   ◉Street View
3. 03

   3

   Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza

   Duck into the courtyard of the old university on Corso del Rinascimento for Borromini's spiralling lantern — a corkscrew of stone you'd miss from the street. The church itself keeps short, odd hours, but the courtyard is reward enough.

   03

   Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza

   Duck into the courtyard of the old university on Corso del Rinascimento for Borromini's spiralling lantern — a corkscrew of stone you'd miss from the street. The church itself keeps short, odd hours, but the courtyard is reward enough.

   ◉Street View
4. 04

   4

   Piazza Navona

   Built on the shape of Domitian's stadium, which is why it's a long oval rather than a square. Bernini's *Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi* is the centre; the figure shielding its eyes is supposedly recoiling from Borromini's church opposite — a feud in marble. Walk the full length.

   04

   Piazza Navona

   Built on the shape of Domitian's stadium, which is why it's a long oval rather than a square. Bernini's *Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi* is the centre; the figure shielding its eyes is supposedly recoiling from Borromini's church opposite — a feud in marble. Walk the full length.

   ◉Street View
5. 05

   5

   Sant'Agostino

   A few minutes north, slip in for Caravaggio's *Madonna dei Pellegrini* — the one with the pilgrims' dirty feet pointed straight at you. Bring a coin for the light box; it's the only way to see it properly.

   05

   Sant'Agostino

   A few minutes north, slip in for Caravaggio's *Madonna dei Pellegrini* — the one with the pilgrims' dirty feet pointed straight at you. Bring a coin for the light box; it's the only way to see it properly.

   ◉Street View
6. 06

   6

   Sant'Ignazio

   End at the church with the painted-on dome. Stand on the brass disc set in the floor and look up: the flat ceiling becomes a soaring dome through sheer perspective trickery. Step off the disc and watch it collapse back to a painting.

   06

   Sant'Ignazio

   End at the church with the painted-on dome. Stand on the brass disc set in the floor and look up: the flat ceiling becomes a soaring dome through sheer perspective trickery. Step off the disc and watch it collapse back to a painting.

   ◉Street View