Pigneto is where post-war Rome lived and where Pasolini filmed it: a working quarter of low blocks east of the wall, built around a railway, now equal parts old market street and young drinking scene. Accattone was shot in these lanes in 1961, and the streets still look the part — which is the whole reason to come.
Start at the iron footbridge over the railway by the Metro C stop, the quarter's signature crossing, and walk into Via del Pigneto — the pedestrian spine, fruit stalls by day, a slow promenade by night. Do the length once before you stop. Halfway along, Necci dal 1924 is the bar Pasolini drank in while filming; it's a café and kitchen now, and worth the room alone.
Drift into the side lanes for the Accattone corners — the same modest blocks, the same flat light — then let the evening open at the aperitivo bars around Largo Preneste, spritz on the pavement, the drink that runs long. End towards Malatesta where the brick arches of the Acquedotto Alessandrino cut across the modern road, Rome leaving its ruins where they fell. The Metro C takes you out.
