San Giovanni in Laterano: the cathedral of Rome
The city's actual cathedral, the Holy Stairs, the tallest obelisk in Rome, and the old wall gate. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Piazza di Porta San Giovanni
Come up from the metro into the open square below the wall. The east front of the basilica rises ahead, statues along the roofline. Stand back and take the scale before you go closer; this is the cathedral most visitors never realise is the cathedral.

2. Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano
The cathedral of Rome — the Pope's own seat, older in rank than St Peter's. Inside, the giant apostle statues in the nave and the Cosmatesque floor are the things to slow down for. Free; far quieter than the Vatican.

3. The Lateran obelisk
On the north side, the tallest standing Egyptian obelisk anywhere — fifteenth-century BC, carted from Karnak, re-raised here in 1588. Walk a full circle of it; the scale only lands when you're underneath.

4. Scala Santa (the Holy Stairs)
Across the road, the staircase said to be the one Christ climbed before Pilate, brought to Rome by tradition. The devout go up on their knees; you can take the side stairs and look. Either way, go in.

5. Porta Asinaria
The original gate in the Aurelian Wall beside the modern arch — fourth-century brick with its round towers intact. Walk up to the old gate rather than the traffic arch; you're touching the third-century edge of the city.

6. Via Emanuele Filiberto
The straight street running from the square towards Manzoni — everyday San Giovanni, shops and trees, a calm comedown after the monuments. Walk it to the metro; the line out is at the far end.

San Giovanni in Laterano: the cathedral of Rome