Testaccio: the market and the hill of shards
Rome's best food market, a hill built of broken amphorae, and Keats under the pyramid. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Piramide di Caio Cestio
Come up from the Metro B and the first thing you see is a marble pyramid wedged into the city wall — a magistrate's tomb from about 12 BC, built when Rome had a brief Egyptian fashion. Walk around it before heading into Testaccio proper.

2. Cimitero Acattolico (Protestant Cemetery)
The non-Catholic cemetery against the pyramid: cats, cypresses, and the graves of Keats and Shelley. Keats's stone carries no name, only 'Here lies one whose name was writ in water.' A donation is expected at the gate; give it and take your time.

3. Monte Testaccio
A 35-metre hill made entirely of smashed Roman amphorae — the discarded olive-oil jars of the imperial port, stacked for three centuries. You can't usually climb it without a booked tour, but walk the base on Via Galvani and read the shards in the cuttings.

4. Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio
The covered market that rehoused the old square's stalls in 2012, built over a patch of excavated Roman road you can see through the floor. Box 15 (Mordi e Vai) does the famous *allesso* (boiled-beef) panino; eat it standing up, the way it's meant.

5. Via Marmorata and the old Mattatoio
The former slaughterhouse, now an arts campus and part of the architecture faculty. Testaccio's *quinto quarto* (offal) cooking was born here — the workers were paid in the parts nobody else wanted. Look at the bull statue over the gate.

6. Volpetti, Via Marmorata
The deli that taught half of Rome about cheese — counters of *pecorino*, *guanciale* and cured everything, with staff who hand you slivers to taste whether you ask or not. Buy something for the train; close the loop back to Piramide from here.

Testaccio: the market and the hill of shards