The Gianicolo isn't one of Rome's seven hills — it's the eighth, the ridge across the river that the others get to look at. Which means it has the one thing they don't: the view of all of them at once. Walk the ridge, then fall down into Trastevere.
About three and a half kilometres, best in the morning with the light at your back. Climb to the Fontana dell'Acqua Paola — il Fontanone to Romans, a wall of marble and falling water that opens La Grande Bellezza. A few steps on, Bramante's Tempietto hides in a monastery courtyard: the small round temple that taught the Renaissance how to build.
Then the Passeggiata, the long terrace where the whole city lies below you and a cannon fires a blank at noon out of habit. Garibaldi sits on his horse at the top, facing the Vatican.
Take the shaded road down through the pines into Trastevere and land in the square at Santa Maria in Trastevere, mosaics glinting on the facade. Sit on the fountain steps, then Tram 8 from Belli.
