The Gianicolo: the ridge over Rome, then down to Trastevere
The big fountain, the terrace with the whole city laid out, and the noon cannon. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Fontana dell'Acqua Paola (the Fontanone)
Romans just call it *il Fontanone* — the big fountain. A wall of marble and water built to mark the end of an ancient aqueduct, and the opening shot of a famous film. The little terrace beside it already gives you half of Rome. Catch your breath here.

2. San Pietro in Montorio and the Tempietto
A few steps along, in the cloister of the monastery, stands Bramante's *Tempietto* — a perfect little circular temple, the building every Renaissance architect measured themselves against. Tiny, and easy to miss. Look through the gate if the courtyard is shut.

3. Passeggiata del Gianicolo (the terrace)
The long balcony along the ridge, and the reason for the walk: the whole city laid out below, domes and rooftops to the hills beyond. Come with the morning light behind you. A man with an old cannon fires a blank at noon — set your watch by it.

4. Monumento a Giuseppe Garibaldi
The hero of Italian unification on horseback at the high point of the ridge, facing the Vatican he once besieged. The terrace around the plinth is the widest view of all. His wife Anita has her own galloping statue a little further north.

5. Fontana del Gianicolo / the descent
Take the curling road down through the trees toward Trastevere. The slope is shaded the whole way and the city reappears in gaps between the umbrella pines. Let gravity do the work.

6. Santa Maria in Trastevere
Land in Trastevere's oldest square, at the basilica with the golden mosaics on its facade lit at dusk. The piazza fills with people on the fountain steps; a coffee at one of the cafés on the rim is the right way to end. Tram 8 from Belli is a short walk on.

The Gianicolo: the ridge over Rome, then down to Trastevere