The Quirinale: the palace hill and the Trevi done right
The president's hill, an oval Bernini church, and the back way to the Trevi Fountain. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Piazza del Quirinale
The highest of the seven hills, and the square in front of the president's palace. The view west over the rooftops to St Peter's is the quiet reward; the two giant horse-tamers flanking the obelisk are Roman copies the popes dragged here. Catch the changing of the guard if you time it.

2. Sant'Andrea al Quirinale
Bernini's small oval church, the one he was proudest of — he'd sit in it in his old age just to be there. The interior is gold and rose marble under a low dome; enter and look up. Free, often empty, and the best ten minutes on this walk. Closed some afternoons.

3. San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane
A hundred metres on, Borromini's answer: a tiny church on a street corner that bends and ripples as if the walls were breathing. The two churches argue across the road. Stand in the middle and look both ways. The four fountains give the crossroads its name.

4. Scuderie del Quirinale
The old papal stables turned exhibition hall, facing the palace across the square. Worth a look at whatever's showing — they land serious touring shows. If nothing tempts you, the staircase window has its own view back over the city.

5. Trevi Fountain (the back approach)
Come down from the hill through the lanes behind, not up the tourist funnel — you arrive above the fountain and the whole theatrical wall of it drops away below you. Throw the coin if you must. Early morning is the only time it's bearable.

6. Galleria Sciarra
One street back toward Barberini, a covered courtyard painted floor to glass roof with Art Nouveau women — virtues of the ideal wife, as it happens. Walk in off the street; almost nobody does. A strange, lovely full stop before the Metro at Barberini.

The Quirinale: the palace hill and the Trevi done right