The Tridente: Piazza del Popolo to the Spanish Steps
The three streets that fan from one square, the twin churches, and Keats's last window. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Piazza del Popolo
Start in the oval where three streets meet. The Egyptian obelisk in the centre is older than the city around it. Walk to the southern end and look back before you leave — the twin churches frame the whole thing on purpose.

2. Santa Maria del Popolo
On the north-east corner, easy to walk past. Two Caravaggios hang in the Cerasi Chapel — the Crucifixion of St Peter and the Conversion of St Paul — and you can see them for nothing. Bring a coin for the light box.

3. The twin churches
Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto look identical from the square; they aren't quite. Take the middle prong, Via del Corso, between them and walk straight south into the shopping run.

4. Via del Babuino
Slip off the Corso onto the eastern prong instead — the antique-dealer street, quieter, with the half-man-half-goat fountain that gave it its name. It runs you straight down to the foot of the Steps.

5. The Spanish Steps
The Barcaccia fountain by Bernini's father sits at the bottom; the church of Trinità dei Monti closes the top. Climb the hundred and thirty-five steps slowly, or sit on them and watch — sitting is now fined, so keep moving.

6. Keats-Shelley House
The ochre house at the foot of the Steps, right-hand side, is where John Keats died at twenty-five. Two small rooms of letters and death masks. Go in even if poetry isn't your thing; the window over the Steps is the point.

The Tridente: Piazza del Popolo to the Spanish Steps