Trastevere: the backstreets south of the Viale

Stops along the way

Things to notice.

1. 01

   1

   Piazza di San Cosimato

   Start in the real working square, not the famous one. There's a small daily food market under the plane trees most mornings, locals on the benches, and none of the evening's noise. Come now and you get Trastevere doing its actual job.

   01

   Piazza di San Cosimato

   Start in the real working square, not the famous one. There's a small daily food market under the plane trees most mornings, locals on the benches, and none of the evening's noise. Come now and you get Trastevere doing its actual job.

   ◉Street View
2. 02

   2

   Vicolo del Cinque

   Wander up this narrow lane for the cobbles, the ivy, and the laundry strung between shutters. Resist photographing every doorway and just walk it slowly; this is the *Trastevere* that survives between the bars.

   02

   Vicolo del Cinque

   Wander up this narrow lane for the cobbles, the ivy, and the laundry strung between shutters. Resist photographing every doorway and just walk it slowly; this is the *Trastevere* that survives between the bars.

   ◉Street View
3. 03

   3

   Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere

   The heart of the *rione* — go in the early morning when the mosaic facade catches the light and the steps of the *fontana* aren't yet packed. Inside the basilica, the gold apse mosaics are the oldest of their kind in the city; tip your head back and let your eyes adjust.

   03

   Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere

   The heart of the *rione* — go in the early morning when the mosaic facade catches the light and the steps of the *fontana* aren't yet packed. Inside the basilica, the gold apse mosaics are the oldest of their kind in the city; tip your head back and let your eyes adjust.

   ◉Street View
4. 04

   4

   Via della Lungaretta

   The old straight road that ran clear to the river, now lined with shops. Walk its length east, but slip into the side lanes whenever one tempts you — the grid here predates the traffic by a couple of thousand years.

   04

   Via della Lungaretta

   The old straight road that ran clear to the river, now lined with shops. Walk its length east, but slip into the side lanes whenever one tempts you — the grid here predates the traffic by a couple of thousand years.

   ◉Street View
5. 05

   5

   Basilica di Santa Cecilia

   South into the quieter pocket for the church built over the house of the patron saint of music. Pay the small fee to go down into the excavated Roman rooms beneath, or just sit in the courtyard garden with its single rose bush and fountain.

   05

   Basilica di Santa Cecilia

   South into the quieter pocket for the church built over the house of the patron saint of music. Pay the small fee to go down into the excavated Roman rooms beneath, or just sit in the courtyard garden with its single rose bush and fountain.

   ◉Street View
6. 06

   6

   Piazza Trilussa

   Finish at the river end, where the broad fountain steps face Ponte Sisto. By day it's calm and the view across to the *centro* is the reward; the tram back is a couple of minutes north along the *Lungotevere*.

   06

   Piazza Trilussa

   Finish at the river end, where the broad fountain steps face Ponte Sisto. By day it's calm and the view across to the *centro* is the reward; the tram back is a couple of minutes north along the *Lungotevere*.

   ◉Street View