Via Appia Antica: the basalt road
The Republic's great road past the tombs — Cecilia Metella, the catacomb gates, and the umbrella pines. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis
The small church where, the story goes, Peter fleeing Rome met Christ walking in and turned back. A copy of the 'footprint' stone is inside. Start here — it's where the ancient road becomes walkable and the city traffic falls away behind you.

2. Catacombe di San Sebastiano
One of the great catacomb complexes under the road — miles of tufa galleries and early Christian burials. You can only go down with a guided tour, and it's worth booking; if you'd rather keep walking, the gatehouse and basilica above are free to look at.

3. Circo di Massenzio
The best-preserved Roman circus outside the city, Maxentius's private racetrack from around 309 AD, with the starting gates and spine still readable in the grass. Almost always empty. Walk out onto the track; nobody minds.

4. Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella
The great drum tomb of a noblewoman, later fortified into a castle by the Caetani family — the medieval battlements sit straight on the Roman cylinder. The ticket also gets you the castle and a stretch of original basalt paving. The turning point of the walk.

5. The basalt road and the umbrella pines
Past Cecilia Metella the road runs as the Romans laid it — black basalt *basoli* (paving stones) rutted by carts, broken tombs left and right, *pini* (umbrella pines) overhead and open *campagna* beyond. This is the stretch people picture. Walk as far as your legs allow, then turn back.

6. Capo di Bove
On the way back, a quiet archaeological garden with the remains of a Roman bath complex and shaded benches — a good last pause before the bus. The Appia visitor information point is near here if you want a map for next time.

Via Appia Antica: the basalt road