Alamo Square is the most photographed view in San Francisco and one of the least walked. Everyone stops at the Painted Ladies for ten minutes and leaves; the neighbourhood behind them — wide Victorian boulevards, a grand dark mansion, the eating streets of NoPa — is the actual walk.
About three and a half kilometres, best in the afternoon. Start at Postcard Row, the six matched Queen Annes on Steiner with the downtown towers behind, then climb into the square itself for the angle from the top of the rise. On the park's far corner stands the Westerfeld House, taller and stranger than the famous six, with a tower and a tangled history.
Then walk west on Fulton, the broad Western Addition boulevard where the houses grow grander and the crowds vanish — this is the architecture done properly. Turn down Divisadero into NoPa for a coffee or a loaf, and end at the Panhandle, the shaded green strip of redwoods running off Golden Gate Park, with the 5-Fulton along its edge to carry you home.