Nob Hill: the hill of the railroad barons
The grand hotels, Grace Cathedral and its labyrinth, the cable cars crossing, and the bay laid out below. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. California and Powell — the cable cars cross
Start at the crossing where the California Street line meets the Powell cars. Two cable systems intersect on the hilltop; stand on the corner and watch them haul through. This is the high point of the line and the old high point of the city's money.

2. The Fairmont and the Mark Hopkins
The two grand hotels face each other across California. The Fairmont opened just after the 1906 fire that gutted the barons' mansions; the Mark Hopkins stands where Mark Hopkins's house burned. Step into the Fairmont lobby for the gilt and the marble.

3. Huntington Park
A small formal square on the block where Collis Huntington's mansion stood until the fire. A bronze copy of Rome's tortoise fountain sits at the centre. The benches here give you the cathedral across the street; a good place to sit before you go in.

4. Grace Cathedral and the labyrinth
The Gothic cathedral has gilded bronze doors cast from Ghiberti's Florence originals. Inside and out are two labyrinths set into the floor and forecourt — walk one slowly; they're meant for walking, not looking at. Entry is free.

5. Cable Car Museum
Down the north slope, the powerhouse that drives every cable in the city is open and free. The huge spinning wheels under the floor pull the cables that pull the cars. Loud, working, and the explanation for everything you've watched climb the hill.

6. Hyde Street — the bay view and the line down
Walk west to Hyde, where the Powell-Hyde cars start their plunge toward the water. The bay opens out ahead, Alcatraz square in the gap between the blocks. Pick up the cable car here or walk the grade down on foot.

Nob Hill: the hill of the railroad barons