The Richmond: Clement Street and the Russian quarter
The other Chinatown's food street, the gold-domed cathedral, and bookshops on the way to the Presidio. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Clement Street, the lower blocks
Start where Clement gets going around Arguello — the dim sum windows, the produce crates on the sidewalk, the bakeries with the egg tarts cooling in the glass. This is the city's working food street, the one without the tour buses. Eat as you walk.

2. Green Apple Books
The big rambling independent on Clement, floors of new and used stock with the creaking-board, hand-lettered-shelf feeling that survives by being genuinely good. Go in even if you've nothing to buy; you won't leave empty.

3. The Clement food crawl, mid-street
Keep west and the kitchens turn from Cantonese to Burmese to Russian within a block. This is the old joke about the Richmond — it has every cuisine and no name for itself. Pick the doorway that smells right and trust it.

4. Holy Virgin Cathedral
Up on Geary, five gold onion domes against the fog — the Russian Orthodox cathedral that anchors the old émigré quarter. The interior is open at services; from the sidewalk the domes alone justify the two-block detour.

5. Geary Boulevard, the Russian blocks
Walk Geary west through what was Little Russia — the delis, the bakeries with black bread and piroshki, the bookshops in Cyrillic. Quieter than Clement and stranger; the city's Cold War demography still showing on the shopfronts.

6. Toward the Presidio's edge
Carry on west to where the avenues run up against the green wall of the Presidio. Turn back for the 38-Geary, or push into the pines if the light's still good. The fog usually wins out here by late afternoon.

The Richmond: Clement Street and the Russian quarter