Most of Djurgården isn't museums at all. East of the canal it's the royal oak landscape — a former hunting ground left deliberately wild, and the quietest big green space within reach of the centre. This is the walk for the morning after the museums.
Take the no.7 tram to its eastern reach and cross the Djurgårdsbrunn canal; the change is immediate, crowds behind you, old oaks ahead. Some of these trees predate the country's parliament, and the path is yours to leave — the meadows are made for crossing.
The middle of the walk is Rosendals Trädgård, the biodynamic garden with an orchard, beds of cut flowers, and a greenhouse café. The fika here is the best on the island; take the bun outside and sit among the apple trees. A few minutes on stands Rosendal Palace, Karl XIV Johan's summer pavilion, its porphyry vase in the forecourt.
From there walk the eastern meadows down to Blockhusudden, the point where the channel opens to the harbour. Bus 69 takes you back — or simply turn around and let the oaks do it twice.
