Djurgården: the wild half and Rosendal
Past the canal into the royal oaks, to a biodynamic garden with the best fika on the island. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Djurgårdsbrunn canal
Where the built island ends and the green one begins. The narrow canal cuts across the neck of *Djurgården*; cross the bridge and the crowds thin almost at once. Rowers in summer, ice in a cold winter.

2. The royal oak landscape
Some of these oaks are older than the kingdom's parliament. The old hunting ground was never cleared, so you walk through proper old-growth — leave the path if you like; the meadows want crossing.

3. Rosendals Trädgård
The biodynamic *trädgård* (garden): an orchard, vegetable beds, a vine-hung greenhouse café. The *fika* here is the best on the island — take the cinnamon bun out to a bench among the apple trees and stay a while.

4. Rosendal Palace
Karl XIV Johan's summer pavilion, all Empire-style restraint behind the trees. The famous porphyry vase sits in the forecourt. Guided tours only inside, and seasonal — but the grounds are open and quiet.

5. The eastern meadows
Open grass running toward the water, the city entirely out of sight. This is the part of *Djurgården* most people never reach. Bring something to sit on if the morning's dry.

6. Blockhusudden
The island's eastern point, where the channel opens out toward the harbour and the boats come through. Bus 69 runs back to town from here, or turn and take the tram from the way you came.

Djurgården: the wild half and Rosendal