Fjäderholmarna: the nearest archipelago
Twenty-five minutes by boat and you're on a rock in the skärgård, smokehouse and all. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Strömkajen (the boat out)
The white archipelago boats line up here in front of the Grand Hôtel. The *Fjäderholmarna* boat is about twenty-five minutes; sit on the open deck if the weather allows, because the run out past *Djurgården* is the warm-up act.

2. Stora Fjäderholmen harbour
You land in the little harbour — red waterfront buildings, the *brygga* (jetty) busy with day boats. This is the only built-up corner; the rest of the island is rock and pine.

3. The craft workshops
A cluster of glassblowers, a boatbuilder, a potter, a few small studios in the harbour buildings. You're not obliged to buy anything; wandering through is the point.

4. The smokehouse (rökeri)
The island's *rökeri* smokes its own fish; the smell finds you before the sign does. Eat outside on the rocks with the city on the horizon — this is the meal the trip is built around.

5. The shore path and the swimming rocks
Follow the rocky path round the island's edge. The flat granite slabs on the seaward side are where people swim in summer; you don't have to go in, but the water's cleaner than it has any right to be this close to town.

6. The view back to the city
From the high rocks on the western side, the whole skyline is laid out across the water — close enough to feel like cheating. Then back to the harbour for the boat.

Fjäderholmarna: the nearest archipelago