Östermalm is the grand quarter — built late, built rich, and best begun on an empty stomach. Three kilometres that start under a brick roof and run down to the water, where the city keeps its most expensive view.
Begin in the Östermalms Saluhall, the 1888 market hall on the square: a German-medieval brick shell over an iron frame, reopened in 2020, the fishmongers and delicatessens laying out for the morning. Eat there — a counter, a prawn sandwich — before you walk. Out across Östermalmstorg and down Sibyllegatan, past the antique dealers, toward the harbour and Nybroplan, where the gilded Dramaten of 1908 faces the bay and Greta Garbo once trained.
Then the boulevard. Strandvägen is a kilometre of 1890s mansions on one side and varnished old boats along the kaj on the other, built for a world's fair and never since persuaded to be modest. Walk the water side and take your time. Loop back up through the quarter to Stureplan, meet the city under the concrete Svampen, and the T-bana is two minutes on.

